You will need to change the -40 degree idle speed setting again but I recommend not touching anything else. Price Point: $$$. But I still get the iac at 0 and the rpm at 1200. And increasing your idle via the idle screw was also a good idea, because that will lower your amount of IAC that is necessary to keep your engine at the target idle speed. I would suspect something is coming loose causing a stop to the EFI system/Fuel flow. If i adjust the throttle plate screw in to bring IAC in to proper range say around 7 the engine is running around 2000 rpm. About two minutes after I get it set at 850 & 5%, it has progressed to 100%. The "PC Text" indicates what will be shown on the PC/Laptop data monitor or data logger. This minimizes installation time and packages really well on a diverse group of engine applications. The whole topic of using the Sniper TPS for transmission control is one deserving of it's own article but I'll try to summarize a bit here. Stupid question, but where do I see if it's entering Learn mode? Once you so this, and after you have your CAN-to-USB harness attached to your laptop with the Sniper software, you can see precisely the cells where the system is operating when the bog occurs. When you experience this, before you touch anything or shut the engine down, first look at your TPS and your IAC. The 10 step set up on your page set my idle perfect and iac perfect a very consitant 700. Incorrect connections will result in excessive resistance. Bolt on 4150 Flange Carburetor Replacement. I can have it working fine (5% to 10% at target idle at operating temp.) I did check for the lightning under the hood but all was well. As inconvenient as it might seem, I'd recommend keeping a timing light handy and checking your timing during the high idle condition and then again after restarting. That is the default "Clear Flood" TPS setting and turns all fuel off until the engine cranks. With everything else being right and since you can make it start by adding fuel it seems like you must have some sort of fuel pressure issue. When I finished the install on my C10, I set it as follows: 13.1 at idle, 14.2 at cruise, and 12.9 at WOT. Closed Loop Compensation rises to 100%, Do I just keep pushing it the same way to Laptop Access If I read it correctly, the solution from the other thread seemed to fix a constant 300 or so RPM increase. There's nothing wrong with manual tuning, but at this point that is just compensating for an inadequate fuel map. Good luck! Technically it is a warranty-voiding maneuver so proceed at your own risk. The timing can drift 0-30 degrees just due to the width of the rotor tip. Genuine Walbro fuel pumps are virtually bullet-proof. If you hit the gas it pops & backfires through the throttle body. A good example of why it's so important to run a good pre filter in the fuel line. I am Japanese who attached Sniper EFI. Using the handheld, navigate to Tuning > Basic > Basic Idle and ensure your target idle speed is set to the RPM you desire. What I can't explain is why your TPS is acting so randomly. I think that a great number of the challenges that Sniper EFI System Owners face are brought on themselves by getting into the control settings before the system has really had a chance to learn. It might be necessary to insulate or re-route your fuel lines if this can't be solved any other way. (I'm running from a fuel cell on the garage floor 10 feet away with lines in plain sight and do see fuel coming from the return at a decent flow. I followed the instructions and set the IAC to 2-9% when warm with idle at 850 RPM. If your RPM is 2000, your TPS is 0, and your IAC is not closing, then there is some problem. Capability Range: Professional If I put the vehicle in gear the idle gets higher with temp. I have been able to get it pretty My dad wanted to recheck the timing so I set the Static Timing at 15 and it runs perfect. That's not the IAC Hold Position, it's a percentage value. The biggest issue is these problems are intermittent meaning they do not occur all the time. It didnt do this with the carb on it. With select intake manifolds, the distributor housing and IAC valve on the back of the Sniper EFI throttle body are fighting for the same . That is the IAC hold position. No timing control, coil negative ignition type. One of the great features of Holley's Sniper is the ability to set your air/fuel ratio (AFR) where you want it. The symptoms I had was a low cold start idle and going lean coming to a stop. A problem since day 1 - YouTube Leave a comment if you've had this issue and how you resolved. Thanks again for your insights! This page was generated at 12:26 AM. Last night I tried setting the IAC and had the same problems after it's warmed up. Its timed to 36 degrees. If your TPS has snuck up to 2% then your IAC will be at the hold position, which by default is 30%. It is good to at least know that the Sniper fuel pressure regulator can have high pressure failure issues (contrary to what I posted to Scott back on April 13th!) That will happen occasionally, but less as time goes and on and the engine tune stabilizes. As I would slow down for a stop sign or stop light, the car would run really rough and the idle did not want to come down. I had this same exact issue. Second--even in the HP and Dominator systems where a fuel pressure sensor can be dalogged and displayed, the fuel pressure is not fed back into the algorithm. That It's not necessary to drive it that way. = 2.34 I would only play with this if you are finding that the other adjustments I suggested aren't working. After only running for about 15 minutes or so the system starts to fail stalling the motor. I have driven it a few times maybe 100 miles or so. Thank you. It turns out that some of the Snipers are shipping with the minus 40-degree setting drastically lower, as shown in the following image. If I put the truck in neutral the TPMS will raise all the way up over 2000. I think you'll be all set! MAP Sensor. Thanks for the great question! I'm running a 408 sbc. That is likely just confusing the issue.Instead, choose whichever setup most resembles your camshaft and stick with that. If you complete the process and find that the IAC is less than 2% at idle, repeat the process and use the set screw to make the RPM about 60 RPM below the target. It's called tuning. I took some pics of the sensors page this morning after the car warmed up. Edit I just ordered a Holley return / regulator and cap for the sniper ouletOh, this is not an OEM Master Kit, but the fuel pump should be the same EFI Pro shipped this kit. I have driven car about 200 miles. 30 minutes later CTS reads 161, start engine Idle is jumping from 450 (almost stall) to 1500, IAC is jumping all over 10 90. If i set the idle to 750, the only way i can get it there is to turn the idle screw all the way out but then its at 0 iac. Chris's Idle Speed Adjustment Instructions*: *Note: If you are using your Sniper to control ignition timing then I recommend that before you start this process you disable idle spark control If you are trying to do this while the ECU is simultaneously trying to bring your idle under control by adjusting the advance it is going to be counter-productive. Some suggestions: i did have the same problem.try lengthening the lever of the throttle.meaning the length from the center of the throttle to the point where you attach your cable or your rod from the peddle. i'm having is I can't seem to get the truck to run faster than 45 mph at speeds Then follow all of the instructions above, including confirming the idle speed curve setting at -40 degress as well as following my 10-step process for setting the idle. The fact that it ran so (at times) with 90+ PSI fuel pressure is a testimony to the Holley's closed-loop technology. Free ground shipping regardless of order size! No big deal, just time to re-adjust! If the TPS is even just 2%, the IAC will go to the hold position (normally 30%) and will not change until the TPS goes back below 2%.If you create a datalog you will be better able to confirm if something is not working correctly. Turning off and then on again, the engine returns to normal. I did buy the Sniper from you guys and the service was fantastic. Turned it off and on again. Let's start by not assuming anything. Consider adding fuel in the AE vs TPS and/or AE vs MAP ROC tables in the area where the stumble is occuring.Since this is happening at such low TPS levels it is possible that your engine would prefer a lower (richer) target AFR number at idle. (Plus they it just looks way cool in your engine compartment!) The weather in Ct has finally improved and I have put about 60 miles on the car with the Sniper system. I set it exactly like the instructions said and my iac is not only all over the place but when I finally did get it to the 2-10 range it's highlighted in red. The first 250-300 miles were amazing as the Sniper EFI worked flawlessly. I believe because the TPS is not registering. Until the engine starts, the throttle only has one purpose: To detect you pressing it to 60%, at which point it shuts off the fuel injectors. After this whole process, the car normally rotates without a very abrupt pedal. We can not hit it at all, we hit the pedal abruptly, the engine gives a lot of excess fuel, the AFR gets super poor at first, the car stops, then the AFR gets super rich and the car runs until it cleans up. Key, I believe, in this success is solid connections, resistance-free signal and ground paths, and solid RFI rejection. First, I'm kind of insistent about not changing any of the default settings unless the vehicle absolutely will not cooperate enough to drive/learn, and only then if you have a specific understanding of the problem and a specific solution. Start by doing the fastest start you can that doesn't bog. But now that Terminator X is available, I highly recommend going that route. If you patiently adjust this over the course of days you will get it just right.Again, glad this is working for you and look forward to a good report in the future! Also what would you say a desired idle should be for a 3 speed automatic ford? Does anyone have photos of this additional return spring they installed? This question is really outside both the scope of what we try to discuss in the comments section as well as the overall subject of this article. First, recognize that the IAC and the TPS are not inter-related in any way. applies here because it is so important to realize that just because the IAC Hi Chris thanks in advance for any tips. We've already tried adjusting the Acceleration Enrichment chart in all ways, going up and down, RoC Blanking, everything, it has no effect. What must remain foremost in your mind is that the only thing that can cause the idle to increase is additional air getting into the engine. The Sniper EFI replacement throttle body for Autolite 1100 carburetors will be right at home on most early in-line 6 cylinder powered grocery getters or weekend cruisers. close to idle with the IAC between 2% & 12%. And your understanding of how the throttle position affects idle is exactly correct. If you have a bellcrank in your throttle linkage, ensure that the linkage is not engaging the bellcrank at an angle greater than 45 degrees at either end of the throw. If you have any questions about the car/setup let me know. I ask because I'm using a PCV valve with my Sniper and have random idle issues as well. Also when ac kicks on it will idle down and stall. A few, however, get tangled up getting the idle control working just the way they want. I called support line he said he would have to look into it and call back. Chris---I am contemplating replacing my Holley 750 on my new low vacuum 600 HP 496 with the Holley Sniper FI system. any advise would be appreciated. There are six different acceleration enrichment tables that you can tweak and that may be the way to go. This is Intermittent meaning, I can run this test 5 times and IAC will function incorrectly 2 out of the 5 times. Tps is saying 26% when it at idle. Thank you in advance for your help and providing us rookies with your :-). But I can tell you that for most people who try this it introduces so much RFI onto the Sniper that it never works right. That, on top of your air leak, is allowing the engine to idle at 2400 RPM. I'm wonder if the iac can cause this. A couple of possibilities that come to mind in order of likelihood: Im having an issue with what I think is the Iac. the gas it catches itself and runs fine at slower speeds. If that tested out okay then I can really guess that there might be some sort of intermittent, temporary RFI. Simply go to those cells, tweak them up or down as required, and the ECU should now be able to learn its way around the bog. I will try the other stuff when I get off work. During cruising at 30 miles and release the gas pedal the engine revs at aproximaly 1500 RPM and it won't drop. and if you do run into any problems then, yes, the plethora of tunability adjustments available through either the handheld or the Sniper Software will certainly be enough to get you right where you need to be! Was perfect idle iac reading 3. Since it is unlikely that anything else changed it is most likely the IAC is problematic or the butterflies are not shut all the way. Everything was working perfectly and I shut off the engine. What an amazing site you have here. May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ. If I keep the rpm's up it does fine but my clutch can't keep up with this for long.Also when I cover the IAC port the engine dies. You can adjust this number up or down but there is really no need to change it unless the car is stalling.The sucking sound is just what happens when the Sniper EFI System is paired with certain intake manifolds. I.e. Even then, recognize that over time the IAC will need to be readjusted to compensate for minor changes that will cause it to drift. Will restart but only for a minute or so a couple of times then shuts down fuel delivery and will not restart. Ultimately, it is about making the pedal softer, particularly at initial throttle opening. 3 different fuel pumps. Once engine is warmed up been driving for awhile. Sniper EFI Idle Tuning. First, let me congratulate you on your patience in letting the system learn. I haven't driven it for the 30-40 minutes like the several times it idled at 2200. When you key on, you will hear three distinct sounds: The ECU initializing the IAC, the fuel pump priming, and the injectors firing their prime shot. Idle quality is great, RPM is good, sometimes IAC is jumping around from 35 to 60. Relatively new Sniper EFI install on a '69 Mustang 302. A question I cannot get a 100% answer on is can you piggy back off the Sniper EFI TPS for an electronic transmission? Not to bandstand here but this is the point when where you bought your system is so important. I installed the Holley Sniper in my Chevelle this winter with a brand new BluePrint 496. Any help would b great. If you've been running a filter then you have to wonder if you have a legitimate Walbro pump.If you install a new pump and the noise is still coming from the Sniper EFI System then only the dealer who sold you your system can help you. Yes, the sound coming out of your Sniper throttle body is a pulsation from the fuel pump that is pulsing the mechanical fuel pressure regulator. Idle Tuning is a very important part of tuning any EFI system, especially our self-learning units like Sniper or Terminator X EFI. Initial Baseline Idle Speed Screw Setting, http://forums.holley.com/showthread.neral-IAC-Info, http://documents.holley.com/199r11031r.pdf, https://forums.holley.com/showthread-Idle-Solution, If this is your first visit, be sure to Copyright 2022 Holley Performance Products, Inc. All right reserved. The Sniper EFI Manal says not to but many EFI installers have informed me that the transmission only reads the 5V TPS signal from the Sniper EFI & does not draw any power so will not affect the Sniper EFI TPS output. If the regulator is working correctly and there is no restriction in the return line that should make no difference however.Sorry I didn't see this on the Holley forum. https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/19210007.html, http://forums.holley.com/showthread.3128#post83128, If this is your first visit, be sure to Hello Chris. If I block off the iac with tape , I can get it to somewhat idle, but its not consistent. The distributor was loose. You just need to go back through the IAC adjustment procedure now that idle timing control is enabled. Another suggestion is to add an extra turn to the spring built into the linkage to increase the closing force on the throttle shaft. Drive great and idles perfect at stop signs. An undersized or partially plugged fuel filter is a classic EFI installation mistake. Both Sniper and trans controller grounds were direct to the battery ground, as they should be. First--besides the fact that it's not represented on the display, it is not even a parameter that you can datalog. But get that fuel system fixed before going any further. I've abbreviated it just a little bit but am appreciative of the added insight your comments provided.Off-idle performance can really be a challenge to self-learn but be assured that it can almost always be done. They are prone to be inaccurate. have the system learn the higher speeds? We'll also be contacting you for future purchases now that I've discovered you! Since the load is more of a wave that increases the most initially and then decreases again, the ECU is doing really well to get the idle under control in only two or three over/under shots as you describe.You don't mention if you have your Sniper ECU controlling timing. Again, I would lean on that solution to let the vehicle drive/learn before you try to "fix" anything. Covered the IAC port and set idle for 850 ish. Fortunately, I have an article that goes into this in some detail. Take a drive and stop somewhere for 30 minutes, CTS is 170 when engine was shutoff. sniper Installation If you're installing a Sniper EFI system and almost ready to crank it over for the first time, this is the video for you! Look over all of your vacuum lines and fittings. Any suggestions? The manifold pressure increases with the throttle opening but the RPMs are still low. Well, it sounds to me like your Sniper is doing its best to reduce your idle. If the issue persists, you may need to replace the IAC. If that happens then follow my 10-step process shown above. Don't make any changes more than about 10% and keep the same basic shape as the original (High/flat below 20 degrees, sloped downward up to 180 degress, and then flat again above that.) Once it commands that high idle I haven't found anything to return it to normal, other than shutting it down and restarting. I have a 406SBC that does most everything right with this sniper setup. There are a few tell-tale signs that can help you diagnose the problem. Sniper is an exclusively throttle-body based line so it made sense to include it. To finish, I rather tightly twisted the TPS signal and ground wires all the way from the controller to the Sniper TPS and very carefully routed them away from sources of RFI. The 5-6 times it has happened now have been after the car has been running for at least 20 minutes. Ive had an idle at neutral as high as 2400 rpm. Note that Brazilian gasoline has 27% ethyl alcohol. Therefore The iac will always be at 10% now, correct? What could be the cause? I have one customer who is having some similar issues and his AFR is down at 9.6:1 when it won't start. I very pleased with the performance, it is a huge improvement from the 800CFM carb I had on this motor. By the way, this is a new installation on a 69 Camaro, stock 350, dual sync, etc. I certainly appreciate your frustration (as well as your wife's!) If you're having issues with your Holley Sniper IAC getting stuck at 20, there are a few things you can try to fix the problem. The next time it happens is the perfect opportunity to find the problem. Try it! Throttle body mounted ECU - no extra boxes to mount. check out the. The Fuel Base map is perfect, the car works well, runs well, running through the streets, the car is great. One additional wrap on the secondary coiled shaft spring is all that's necessary. What you are experiencing is rather common. I am right back to where I started. Pw. Have a look--I think this is going to allow you to fix your idle problem. Thanks again Chris, your help has been invaluable.If anyone is considering going EFI, Chris is the man to chat with. Ok, so I'm stumped! It is reliant on the data acquired by the included wideband oxygen sensor. That is not a huge problem but it just means the IAC has no ability to lower the idle beyond what it is running at that point. IAC is good 0-5% most of the time. Start engine let it warm up to 160, learn mode is learning. SNIPER EFI TO HOLLEY DUAL SYNC HARNESS Part# 558-493 $34.44 Qty: Add To Cart Idle Air Control Motor Replacement Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor for Sniper EFI TBI Systems, Sniper 90/92/102mm Throttle Bodies, Terminator TBI, Avenger 4bbl TBI, HP 4bbl TBI, Commander 950 & Digital Pro-Jection Systems Part# 543-105 $71.72 Qty: Add To Cart Remember that as an EFI System Pro customer you have access to me at any time via my cell phone. Im in Australia, so stuck the sniper on a 355 Holden engine with CD box. If you go too low then it may stumble or even stall when coming off of throttle. I appreciate the help youve given to everyone as it continually helps me! Turn the idle speed screw on the primaries in about 2-3 turns after it makes contact with the linkage and starts opening the primary throttle blades. However, I can't think of a single one that was because of low vacuum. My IAC was constantly at 100% at idle. The data that you provide shows that you have at least two problems. But, whether your vendor provides you with tech support or sends you to Holley, I'd start by getting them a data log and asking for some insight. Hang in there--you can do it. Drop the IAC parked position a bit at each temperature point and sort of back into the solution.
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